The first time I went to Rome was in December 2006. I knew nothing about Rome. I mean, I’d read a few guidebooks and I’d heard about the history, but when it came to navigating the city I was pretty darn clueless. My travel agent booked me and my friends into a “boutique hotel” across the Tiber River near the Vatican. The first time I walked across the Tiber I walked directly into a world of chaos. Vespas zooming past at the speed of light. Tourist groups that took up entire sidewalks. There was something missing from what I had always expected to find in Rome.
My second time in Rome I stayed near Termini station. Imagine staying just outside of any main train terminal and you can just about smell the lack of charm. Where was this world of piazzas and cobblestone alleys I had pictured?
The third time (you would think by now I would’ve figured it out, but, no…) I stayed up by Villa Borghese. A bit of a hoity-toity area, but still not the Rome I’d been hoping for, holding onto, holding out for.
I’d had a few tastes of it. The area by the Colosseum. The market at Campo de’ Fiori. Piazza Navona. They were areas I happened through quickly, but disconnectedly. I couldn’t really map Rome out in my mind. I hadn’t stayed there long enough to piece together a full picture. All I had were bits and pieces of disappointment and a few glimmers of hope.
Despite my disappointment with Rome, I had fallen in love with Italy. I had taken daytrips out of Rome to other cities bursting with medieval flair. I had blundered through my half-assed Italian and gotten compliments for speaking so beautifully. In fact, the word “bella” was thrown around generously (and who doesn’t love that?!). The wine, the food, the shopping! Oh, and there was that little matter of falling for an Italian man. I was feeling the love everywhere except in Rome.
Summer of 2007 I was desperate to go back to Italy. This time for a month. 10 days traveling around and 20 days in Rome. I was determined to find my Rome. The Rome I knew was somewhere for me to uncover. I couldn’t afford 20 days in a hotel, so I began my search for an apartment. I spent countless hours on Craig’s list, yahoo, and google until I finally came upon La Casa Roma. Everything about it was different. There was a more intimate feel to the web site. Charlotte, the woman who ran the company, emailed me back instantly. I had about a million questions and demands for my temporary home. I guess you could call me a bit of a touristzilla. Let’s be real, this apartment had a lot to live up to. And yet, I felt the hope. Every impossible detail I requested, Charlotte came back to me with yet another option. Every question I asked was met with a friendly response. Her emails were loaded with information and personality. It felt right. I finally felt the start of a click.
When I arrived at my apartment in Rome I couldn’t believe my luck. Here was my dream Rome. My dream street. The shops, the alleys, the charm. Everything I hoped Rome could be. The apartment was perfect with wooden beamed ceilings and frescoes on the walls. Finally, everything clicked into place.
During those 20 days in Rome I discovered that the city is completely walkable if you’re staying in the right location. I discovered that the best restaurants are often not in the guidebooks. That if you’re staying in the historic center, you will inevitably stumble upon a cobblestone street tucked away from the chaos of tourist groups, lined with little treasures. I fell out of love with the Italian man and in love, finally, with Rome.
On the year anniversary of my October 2007 trip, I returned for a little reunion. I planned to eat at the same restaurants, drink the same Vin Santo, and stay in the same charming apartment on via Governo Vecchio. And thanks to Charlotte Kirchgaesser at La Casa Roma, I did just that.
She put me back in my special apartment and when we met up again this time I knew I had to do something. Anyone who visits Rome should contact Charlotte. She’s kind, informed, punctual, organized, friendly, speaks about a million languages, and knows her neighborhoods better than anyone. And here she is – at your disposal. As someone who writes advertising for a living, I found it to be a great injustice if I didn’t advertise for La Casa Roma. She truly makes Rome feel like Home.
Meet Charlotte Kirchgaesser:
ME: What inspired you to create La Casa Roma?
CHARLOTTE: It was a fortunate coincidence. I moved to Rome in 1999. At first it was a bit of a struggle as I didn't speak a word of Italian! So I went to school to study the language and then luckily enough I was able to work on the movie, Gangs of New York (Martin Scorsese). One of the tasks was finding the right accommodation for the high profile actors and the crew as well. So I really discovered the city walking from appointment to appointment taking pictures of these incredible apartments and villas. Then making arrangements for the actors and crew to move into the apartments. I continued working in production. I also went to Romania to work on Cold Mountain for several months and then came back to Rome. Frequently I bumped into the landlords who asked me to rent out their apartments. I explained that it really wasn't something I did for living... But little did I know - as less US productions came over to Rome to film, I was out of work and found it difficult to find an adequate job in PR. So I thought about various options when a friend said I should create a web site and offer the apartments on the web. My friend really had to convince me. So I went for it! And that was the way La Casa Roma began. More than 6 years ago.
Well - sometimes life is strange... I never would have thought that I would rent apartments to people from all over the world when I was working on Gangs of New York. But I think I was really lucky…
ME: What makes La Casa Roma different from other agencies?
CHARLOTTE: We try to make a tailor-made offer to the person who sends us a request considering their needs. Behind the web site there are human beings - so the client can call or send mails with questions and they’ll receive answers from real people. Booking an apartment on the web is certainly a big leap of faith! I don't want to disappoint anyone. I think we all work to hard and deserve a good vacation and if you pay a lump sum of money you deserve quality.
Once the client is here - it is not just about giving them the keys to the apartment. We make sure to walk them through the apartment, explain everything relevant, show them where they can go shopping. They have our number and they can contact us at any time if they are in need of something or have questions. One time a client lost a crown so I made an appointment at the dentist, if they lock themselves out, they can call me (even Christmans Eve!), if they forget something in a cab I try to help out and find the driver, if they need recommendations for restaurants, car services, guides etcetera, I’m here.
Actually, we realized how much our clients appreciate this type of service so we are extending what we offer. I made an agreement to collaborate with a licensed travel agent, PERS Voyage, and by the beginning of 2009 we will additionally offer the following services:
Private guided tours on specific subjects
Airline tickets
Meet and greet at the airport
Airport Transfer services
Car rentals
Wine tasting classes
Cooking classes
Private Shopping Guide with access to best ateliers and designer shops on appointment
Auctions and Vernissage to best galleries in town
Private Parties and Catering
Daily Wellness Packages
Reservations for the best tables in town
Special itineraries in Italy
ME: How do you select the apartments you rent out?
CHARLOTTE: Location is very important. The center of Rome is huge. If you spend a time in Rome, you would like to live in the historic center and not too far away. You don't want to spend your time waiting for buses while you are here in Rome. So that is a must. Then the apartment has to have character and charm. Obviously it also has to be comfortable and have class. Noise is important as well - don't forget Rome is one of the noisiest cities in the world: scooters, restaurants, night life... I really have to see myself spending time in the apartment as well.
ME: Are there a minimum number of nights people must stay at the apartments?
CHARLOTTE: Yes, 5 nights. I make exceptions as well but like to keep it at 5 nights.
ME: Have you ever rented out to anyone famous?
CHARLOTTE: Well for Gangs of New York I collaborated with an Italian woman and we rented out to Cameron Diaz, Daniel Day Lewis, Martin Scorsese... pretty much the whole cast and crew. Then the cast and crew of Life Acquatic and I also made some arrangements for the crew of Ocean's 12.
ME: What are your favorite areas of Rome?
CHARLOTTE: Well, I love the Monti area! Then the area around Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Campo de' Fiori is lovely as well. You just need to be in the right apartment - otherwise you will be miserable. I love via Giulia and via Margutta - those are the most beautiful alleys in the center. Also, Borgo, around St. Peter's has charm and is like a little village.
ME: What is your favorite thing about living in Rome?
CHARLOTTE: The history of the city... The beauty... walking and strolling around the alleys getting lost and then discovering the most incredible court yards, terraces, palazzi... The food - be it the warm, creamy cappuccino and cornetto (croissant) in the morning. Watching the city wake up... observing the people getting ready to go to work… Then a simple panino crunchy with fresh mozzarella and prosciuto... or pasta.... the dolce... the wine... and most of the climate. It is lovely... People are laid back and even if things don't seem to work the Italians are masters at improvising. You can learn a lot from them.
ME: In your opinion, why is it better to stay in an apartment than in a hotel?
CHARLOTTE: You certainly have more space! You can enjoy your apartment - cook - and go shopping. It is fun to go to the market and buy fresh produce for example at Campo de' Fiori and prepare your lunch at home.Then if you walk through the city, from site to site and museums you get tired and it is great to be able to relax in an apartment. There is usually more than one room - so one can read in the living room while the other can sleep. Plus you just experience the city in a different way - live as the Romans do!
If you’re planning a trip to Rome, check out Charlotte’s apartments at www.lacasaroma.com
Or email her directly at
Charlotte@lacasaroma.com
